Costume Jewelry Designers of 1940–1960: A Golden Age of Style

The mid-20th century was a high watermark for American and European costume jewelry. Between wartime ingenuity and postwar glamour, designers created pieces that still captivate collectors today.

Why 1940–1960 Was So Special

The two decades spanning the 1940s and 1950s transformed costume jewelry from simple accessories into bold expressions of fashion and identity. Wartime material restrictions in the early 1940s forced designers to innovate with base metals, glass, plastics, and sterling silver. When prosperity returned, the 1950s delivered exuberant sparkle—think rhinestone-studded brooches, elaborate parures, and statement necklaces designed to complement the cinched waists and feminine silhouettes of the era. This blend of necessity and newfound optimism produced styles that are both inventive and timeless.

Trifari: Refined Glamour and the “Alfred Philippe” Touch

Trifari stands at the center of mid-century costume jewelry. Under designer Alfred Philippe, Trifari perfected fine-jewelry techniques—prong-set rhinestones, invisible settings, and elegant casting—then applied them to affordable pieces. The result was polished glamour with exceptional craftsmanship. Look for fruit salad motifs, floral sprays, and regal crowns, often plated in rich rhodium for lasting brilliance. Trifari’s quality control and consistent design language make their brooches and sets perennial collector favorites.

Coro & Corocraft: From Everyday Sparkle to Couture Flair

Coro was one of the largest costume jewelry manufacturers of the era, famous for producing accessible yet stylish pieces. Under the Corocraft label, the company offered higher-end lines with premium plating and more complex designs. Coro’s “duette” brooches—two coordinated clips that lock into a single frame—are quintessential 1940s design. Expect versatile florals, scrolling ribbons, and patriotic or figural themes that reflect the tastes and moods of the decade.

Miriam Haskell: Handcrafted Romance

Miriam Haskell’s atelier elevated costume jewelry to artful, couture-level adornment. Known for hand-wired construction, baroque pearls, pressed glass, gilt filigree, and poetic asymmetry, Haskell pieces feel like wearable bouquets. The quality of materials and labor-intensive techniques—often finished by master designer Frank Hess—are evident in the delicate layers and subtle color stories. Vintage Haskell necklaces and earrings from the 1940s and 1950s remain highly sought after for their craftsmanship and romantic aura.

Hattie Carnegie: Fashion-House Chic

Hattie Carnegie brought runway sophistication to jewelry counters, translating couture trends into accessible accessories. Her pieces often balanced bold silhouettes with impeccable proportions—think cabochons, sculptural metalwork, and crisp color blocking. Carnegie’s collections paired beautifully with the tailored suits and cocktail dresses of the postwar era, making them favorites for women who wanted polish without pretense.

Eisenberg: Old-Hollywood Drama

Eisenberg started by pinning showy brooches to dresses in store windows—and customers wanted the pins as much as the clothes. The brand’s signature became unapologetically glamorous rhinestone designs with heavy plating and prong settings. In the 1940s, sterling silver was common due to metal restrictions, while the 1950s leaned into dazzling clear and colored stones arranged in starbursts, sprays, and dramatic cascades. Eisenberg pieces bring a cinematic sparkle that still turns heads.

Weiss: Ice-Bright Rhinestones

Weiss built its reputation on brilliantly cut rhinestones that catch light with icy intensity. Their mid-century necklaces and bracelet sets often feature tight pavé fields, marquise clusters, and symmetrical designs that feel crisp and modern. Weiss used quality plating and sturdy construction, helping many pieces survive in excellent condition—great news for collectors hunting wearable vintage shine.

Napier: Modernist Metals and Day-to-Night Versatility

Napier excelled at clean, modern lines crafted in gold-tone and silver-tone metals. While they produced rhinestone pieces, the brand truly shines in tailored, sculptural designs that transition from office to evening. Look for textured link necklaces, bold cuffs, and refined earrings with a minimalist sensibility that anticipates 1960s fashion. Napier’s emphasis on wearability makes its mid-century pieces perfect staples for today’s wardrobes.

Renoir & Matisse: Copper with a Creative Spark

If you love mid-century modern design, Renoir and its enamel line, Matisse, are essential. Renoir’s sleek copper pieces—bracelets, earrings, and abstract brooches—embraced the sculptural warmth of the metal. Matisse layered colorful enamels onto copper in painterly palettes. Geometric curves, calligraphic lines, and stylized leaves offer a distinctly artistic look that pairs beautifully with 1950s and early 1960s silhouettes—and with contemporary minimalist fashion.

Lisner: Accessible Fashion with Flair

Lisner is beloved for light, comfortable pieces featuring molded leaves, translucent lucite, and sparkling rhinestones. Affordable and fashion-forward, Lisner’s sets captured the floral and foliate motifs of the 1950s while keeping designs wearable. Their leaf necklaces and matching clip earrings are mid-century classics that add a fresh, feminine note to any collection.

Marcel Boucher: Designer’s Designer

Trained in fine jewelry, Marcel Boucher brought precision and flair to costume design. His work often features dimensional figural brooches, stylized florals, and elegant, architectural forms. Boucher’s attention to detail—clever stone settings, thoughtful backs, and superb finishing—makes his pieces feel refined and collectible. For those who appreciate artistry and engineering, Boucher is a standout name from this period.

Materials & Techniques to Know

Rhinestones & Glass: Foiled and unfoiled stones in myriad cuts defined 1950s sparkle.
Sterling Silver (1940s): Common during wartime; look for sterling-marked brooches and dress clips.
Platings: Rhodium and gold-tone finishes enhanced shine and durability.
Hand-Wiring: Signature of boutique houses like Miriam Haskell for delicate, layered constructions.
Lucite & Thermoset: Lightweight plastics that enabled bold color and sculpted forms.
Copper & Enamel: Renoir/Matisse used these to achieve warm hues and artistic surfaces.

Identifying Hallmarks & Signatures

Most major houses marked their pieces, though marks changed over time. Trifari, Coro/Corocraft, Eisenberg, Weiss, Napier, Lisner, Boucher, and Hattie Carnegie are typically signed, often on the reverse of a brooch, clasp, or earring clip. Miriam Haskell pieces are frequently unsigned in earlier years but recognizable by construction: hand-wired components, filigree backs, and specific findings. Studying clasp styles, earring mechanisms, and stone settings can help pinpoint era and authenticity.

Collecting Tips for Today’s Enthusiast

Condition First: Favor secure clasps, bright plating, tight prongs, and intact enamels.
Look for Sets: Parures (necklace, bracelet, earrings, brooch) are highly collectible and versatile.
Buy What You’ll Wear: Mid-century jewelry was designed to be seen—choose pieces that fit your style.
Learn the Language: Knowing terms like “duette,” “thermoset,” and “rhodium plated” sharpens your eye.
Respect Patina: Gentle cleaning is fine; avoid harsh chemicals that damage stones, glue, or finishes.

Enduring Appeal

From Trifari’s refined sparkle to Haskell’s hand-wrought romance, from Eisenberg’s star-power to Renoir’s modernist copper, the 1940–1960 era offers a universe of textures, colors, and forms. These designers turned everyday materials into glamorous statements, extending the reach of fashion to anyone with imagination. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just discovering vintage style, mid-century costume jewelry brings history to life—one brooch, bracelet, and brilliant rhinestone at a time.